“This is the time of year when the love of Beaujolais is dusted off and put front and center. Nothing wrong with that, of course, but the Gamay Noir grape has found a broader context than just the easy pleasures of Beaujolais. That goes doubly for the currently available 2011 vintage, which seemed at first to lack the energy of the 2010s but has proven to be pretty and ripe.”
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