DOMAINE DU PEGAU: Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 2007 (95 points, $119)
This packs it all together, with the ripe plum sauce, braised fig and currant paste notes of the vintage matched with invigorating hoisin sauce, brick dust and grilled beef notes. The long finish drips with fruit, but stays framed by a wild edge that keeps this firmly planted in terroir. Best from 2011 through 2031. -J.M.

SÉLECTION LAURENCE FÉRAUD: Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 (92 points, $59)
Grippy for the vintage, with cedar, coffee and roasted fig notes framing the black currant paste, hoisin sauce and roasted beef flavors. There’s a long, tarry note on the finish, with a nice wild edge. Drink now through 2020. -J.M.

CHÂTEAU DE LANCYRE: Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé Pic St.-Loup 2009 (89 points, $20)
An elegant rosé, with a rich allure to the dark cherry, plum and Asian spice flavors. The lush finish is filled with loads of cream that are balanced by minerally notes. Drink now through 2013. – K.M.

COMMANDERIE DE LA BARGEMONE: Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Rosé 2009 (88 points, $18)
Offers a creamy aroma, with concentrated glazed ginger and dried cherry flavors that are accented by smoky notes. The powerful finish features dried currant and spice. Drink now. -K.M.